Sunday 18 September 2016

Nullarbor Ride

Devil gave us only one chance to make a quick getaway on the cold morning of Tuesday 13th of September, but we blew that opportunity by stalling her. Our first idea was to try the jump-start technique on our steep driveway, but the rear tyre locked up on all three attempts. The success of the trickle charger seemed hours away but after fifteen minutes Steve gave her another try and Devil sprung to life, it seemed she was looking forward to a life on the road too. In this flurry of activity we nearly pulled out of the driveway leaving the garage door open. We were both able to compose ourselves from this trying moment in the privacy of our own helmets and within an hour we were cruising along the Brookton Highway, home seeming another world away.


BMW R1200GS, BMW F650GS, motorcycle camping, Fraser Range Station
Fraser Range Station
We rode the 2000kms from Perth to Ceduna in four straight days camping at Merredin, Fraser Range Station (100km east of Norseman) and Eucla. The wind chill on these cold spring mornings made the riding uncomfortable.  When we arrived at Southern Cross, Steve was actually shaking from the cold. Cup-a-soup was an enjoyable reward at lunch time while we warmed our bellies and soothed our chapped hands. We both concluded this was our most challenging Nullarbor crossing by motorcycle.

Head of the Bight, South Australia
Head of the Bight
The Southern Right Whales put on a great show at the Head of the Bight and we watched in amazement at least a dozen mothers and their calves in the sheltered waters of the bay. One calf was practicing all his moves like spy hopping, breaching and tail slapping; it was hilarious.

We holed up for a day in Ceduna while it rained, but this is no punishment as the salt and pepper squid and the scallops from the local fish and chip shop are to die for, and the genuine Italian style pizza is not to be missed by any pizza lover.


Jane Laws, BMW R1200GS, BMW F650GS, Nullarbor
Nullarbor Plain
Unfortunately the rain caused the caravan park’s resident huntsman spider, who we named Big Ced, to take refuge on the inside of our tent’s fly. I disturbed Ced one night and he fell into the open tent as I was about to climb in. I called to Steve for assistance but while we were rummaging qaround for head lights, Big Ced must have climbed out. After completely emptying the tent and shaking and turning everything inside out a dozen times there was no sign of the spider. Big Ced never turned up again but I think of him sometimes and half expect him to make an appearance at an inopportune moment.

Great Australian Bight, South Australia
Great Australian Bight


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